Tailoring a coat requires more thought that most people think. As an investment piece, it has to last several seasons and be versatile enough to be worn formally and in casual situations as well. Even the question of fit is not as straightforward - do we build in the room for the coat to be worn over a jacket (wider shoulders, chest and sleeves) or do we want to come in as fitted as we would for a traditional suit jacket.
Then there are different styles depending on use- the peacoat, the trench coat, the durable winter coat and finally the luxurious cashmere/vicuña coat.
We have covered a couple of traditional styles below, but if you are looking to tailor the new season, the first step would be to make an appointment to visit us.
The Peacoat
The double-breasted peacoat is nothing short of a smart-casual beast. Simply put, it’s one of those coats you can throw on and look instantly better, whether you wear it with distressed jeans and Chelsea boots, or tailored trousers and sneakers.
A navy peacoat is the ultimate go-to versatile style for the weekend that can be dressed up or down.
It’s wise to avoid second-skin fits when buying a peacoat, not just because going slightly oversized adds a dashing Heathcliff-on-the-moors vibe to your look, but also because it allows room for slotting a chunky roll neck or cable knit jumper underneath.
The Trench Coat
Double Breasted Front Style – The classic trench coat is double breasted with six to ten buttons depending on length. This has been popularised over the last couple of seasons with vivid colours. A single breasted coat in a khaki color is a popular design which would stand the test of time.
Single Back Vent – Trench coats have a single vent – the original purpose was to give a soldier room to run as he moved across the battlefield while ensuring protection from strong winds as he waited for the “word.”
Raglan Sleeves – Unlike normal jacket sleeves, the Raglan sleeve is more relaxed and makes the jacket more comfortable when worn with multiple layers of clothing.
Epaulets (Shoulder Tabs) – A military holdover, epaulets allowed officers to attach rank insignia without damaging the coat.
The style of the trench coat has changed very little in its over 100 year history. That being said, there are a lot of different options available to personalise your bespoke tailored trench coat:
Double Breasted Front Style – The classic trench coat is double breasted with six to ten buttons depending on length. This has been popularised over the last couple of seasons with vivid colours. A single breasted coat in a khaki color is a popular design which would stand the test of time.
Single Back Vent – Trench coats have a single vent – the original purpose was to give a soldier room to run as he moved across the battlefield while ensuring protection from strong winds as he waited for the “word.”
Raglan Sleeves – Unlike normal jacket sleeves, the Raglan sleeve is more relaxed and makes the jacket more comfortable when worn with multiple layers of clothing.
Epaulets (Shoulder Tabs) – A military holdover, epaulets allowed officers to attach rank insignia without damaging the coat.
Storm (Gun) Flap – Assumed by many to be padding for a rifle butt, the “gun” flap is actually a protective flap to ensure water does not slip into the jacket as it runs down the shoulders. It effectively serves as a cap, keeping the wearer dry, assuming he has on headwear. We see it on the right side for men and on the left side for women as the jacket buttons up in opposite ways for the different genders. The reference to this flap being a gun flap is probably due to it being requested during WWI when officers complained about water seeping into the coats after firing their rifles. The raising of the right arm opened up and exposed the early trench coat’s breast fold to the elements – not something you want in a downpour.
Detachable D-Ring Belt – The trench coat’s belt enables the wearer to adjust the jacket’s torso and gives him the ability to carry a firearm, sword, or utility pouch.
Cuff Straps – I’ve heard some people say these were for holding grenades – this is assuredly a myth as no sane person who has ever been around explosives would use them in such a way. The trench coat’s cuff straps served simply to tighten the fit and keep the rain out – occasionally someone strapped a piece of gear onto them (like a map – never a hand grenade!).
Detachable D-Ring Belt – The trench coat’s belt enables the wearer to adjust the jacket’s torso and gives him the ability to carry a firearm, sword, or utility pouch.
Cuff Straps – I’ve heard some people say these were for holding grenades – this is assuredly a myth as no sane person who has ever been around explosives would use them in such a way. The trench coat’s cuff straps served simply to tighten the fit and keep the rain out – occasionally someone strapped a piece of gear onto them (like a map – never a hand grenade!).
To make an appointment to discuss your bespoke trench coat, please click here.
The Textured Coat
When winter hits in earnest, even the hardiest folk wish they could brave the elements in a coat that more closely resembles a rug. Thankfully, designers have got the message and this year you can wrap up in textured designs crafted from cashmere and corduroy, as well as tried and tested wools and herringbone.
If you don’t fancy shouting with bold patterns or colours, then choosing to express yourself with texture is an effective way of being stylishly cold. Why leave all the texture to the knitwear? Combine a rugged herringbone overcoat with a chunky Aran knit or fisherman’s jumper for added depth on your top half – and pair with selvedge denim and boots down below.
Opt for simple pieces underneath – a black roll neck and deep navy chinos perhaps – and throw on a flecked grey wool overcoat for a look both bossy and effortlessly cool. Swap out those leather shoes for some smart leather trainers, and you’re left with an outfit that can take you practically anywhere.
